Everything You Need to Know About Ectoin
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In recent years, ectoin has emerged as a hero ingredient in skincare, achieving newfound popularity due to its wide range of benefits.
To understand why this molecule is having such a major moment, we enlisted the expertise of leading skincare professionals to discuss what ectoin is, what it does, and why it makes a valuable addition to any skincare routine.
What is ectoin?
Ectoin is an extremolyte first discovered nearly 40 years ago. As Heather Wish, Education Manager at Paula’s Choice, explains, “Although it’s new to many, ectoin was first discovered in 1985 when scientists studying bacterial species in saltwater environments figured out that this new compound (which wasn’t known as ectoin yet and had an impossibly long name) was an extremolyte, capable of maintaining a healthy balance of water even in environments that weren’t favourable to this ability.”
Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, skincare formulator, educator, and founder of Skin Masterclass, adds, “Extremolytes possess a unique ability to survive extreme environmental conditions by stabilising biological structures such as membranes, proteins, or nucleic acids and protecting extremophiles from environmental stress.”
How does ectoin benefit the skin?
Yilmaz notes that ectoin molecules function similarly in the skin as they do in nature, attracting water molecules into the dermis and forming complexes that surround cells, enzymes, proteins, and other molecules. He explains, “They effectively form a protective shield around these structures, protecting them from damage and reducing cellular inflammation.”
Wish elaborates, “Ectoin’s primary benefits include reducing moisture (water) loss, reversing dehydrated skin, strengthening and supporting the skin’s barrier, reducing signs and sensations of sensitivity such as redness, prickling, and itching, and helping defend skin when exposed to UV light and air pollution. What’s more, ectoin is considered safe, skin-friendly, and sustainable.”
What skin types benefit most from ectoin?
According to Katie Hughes-Dawkins, Training Manager at Harpar Grace International, ectoin’s numerous benefits make it an excellent ingredient for sensitive, dry, or environmentally stressed skin types. She explains, “Ectoin may also be suitable for those with damaged skin barriers, as the very nature of ectoin is to increase hydration, smooth the skin, and reduce inflammation and redness.”
Is ectoin better than hyaluronic acid and niacinamide?
Ectoin’s multiple skincare benefits give it an edge over hyaluronic acid. “While hyaluronic acid primarily focuses on hydrating the skin, ectoin not only hydrates but also provides protective benefits against environmental stressors such as pollution, making it a more comprehensive solution for skincare,” explains Hughes-Dawkins.
When it comes to niacinamide, the comparison is more complex. As Wish argues, “Ectoin isn’t better than niacinamide, it’s just different. These two ingredients complement each other. For example, topical use of niacinamide encourages skin to make more ceramides, which are key substances for a strong moisture barrier. Ectoin increases skin’s barrier health by regulating water loss so skin’s moisture balance is normalised. Both have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties but niacinamide has more research pointing to its benefits for enlarged pores, excess oil, and various types of hyperpigmentation.”
How does ectoin interact with retinoids, vitamin C, and AHAs?
According to Hughes-Dawkins, ectoin partners perfectly with active ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, and AHAs, as it helps mitigate the potential irritation and sensitivity these ingredients can cause. “Ectoin’s protective properties can also complement the antioxidant effects of vitamin C, potentially enhancing its overall efficacy in combating free radical damage,” she notes. “Combining ectoin with AHAs can offer a balanced approach to exfoliation, promoting skin renewal without excessive irritation.”
Does ectoin benefit the hair?
Nicholas Fletcher-Holmes, Creative and Education Ambassador at Kao Salon Division, notes that ectoin benefits the hair and scalp just as it benefits the skin. “Ectoin is a miracle multitasker with advantages that extend beyond skincare,” he explains. “For hair, it excels at maintaining moisture, promoting repair, and protecting against environmental aggressors. Additionally, it is perfect for calming and treating a dry, damaged scalp.”