Functional Fragrance: Everything You Need to Know

In recent years, functional fragrance has slipped into the beauty conversation almost unnoticed. What was once a niche idea is suddenly everywhere — on shelves, in press releases, and in the way brands are talking about scent. It’s no longer just about smelling good. It’s about how fragrance can alter your mood.

The problem is that ‘functional’ gets thrown around a lot. Is it rooted in neuroscience and physiology, or is it just a clever rebrand of something we’ve always known?

To get some clarity, we spoke with Dr Anna Persaud, biochemist and founder of This Works, who has been researching the relationship between fragrance, the brain, and wellbeing for years. For her, functional fragrance isn’t a passing trend — it’s all about using scent in ways that actively support the body and mind.

What Functional Fragrance Really Means

A functional fragrance is about more than just scent. “Functional fragrance can interact with the brain, not just delight the senses,” Persaud explains.

“When a scent is inhaled, aromatic molecules bind to olfactory receptors and activate the olfactory bulb, which uniquely bypasses the brain’s sensory relay station, the thalamus,” she says. “This gives olfaction one of the fastest and most direct sensory routes into neural circuits that govern emotion, stress response, circadian rhythm, memory, and autonomic state.”

In practice, that means scent has a rare ability to influence how we feel almost instantly. Olfactory signals project into key areas of the brain: the amygdala, which processes emotion and stress; the hippocampus, which handles emotional memory; and the hypothalamus, which regulates sleep–wake cycles, hormones, and the nervous system. “These regions are central to how we experience feeling calm or alert, safe or overstimulated, mentally clear or foggy.”

Functional fragrances are intentionally formulated to work with these pathways. “They use specific terpenes and sesquiterpenes found in essential oils. Human neuroimaging and EEG research shows that these aromatic molecules can modulate patterns of arousal. They can help guide the body from high sympathetic ‘on’ states into steadier, calmer parasympathetic regulation, or, depending on the blend, support a shift from cognitive fog into clarity and focus.”

It’s why functional fragrances are often referred to as neuroscents. “They don’t just smell beautiful — they work with neural circuits that influence stress, mood, focus, and overall autonomic balance.”

Why Functional Fragrance Is Everywhere Right Now

The rise of functional fragrance reflects a wider cultural shift in how we think about wellness, and how overstimulated modern life has become.

“There’s a growing awareness of the positive impact fragrance can have on overall wellbeing,” Persaud notes. “Consumers are increasingly recognising fragrance as more than a sensory indulgence.”

Stress, constant connectivity, and blurred boundaries between work and rest are all feeding into that shift. “Modern life puts the nervous system under continuous pressure. People are looking for tools that help them unwind, transition from day to night, and reconnect with themselves.”

A functional fragrance meets that need by offering something deceptively simple: a sensory cue that works with the body’s own regulatory systems, rather than against them.

Why Functional Fragrance Works Best as a Ritual

A functional fragrance is most effective when used consistently as part of a routine, as opposed to an occasional spray. “Beauty rituals are more than indulgence,” Persaud says. “They feed our sense of self-care, grounding, and emotional connection.”

Over time, repeated use creates a learned association in the brain. “Consistently using a scent at the same moment builds a connection with calm, relaxation, and emotional balance,” she explains.

In the moment, a functional fragrance also acts as a neural transition cue, helping signal a shift in state — but, as Persaud notes, “its effect is strongest when paired with mindful behavioural changes.”

To maximise the effect of any functional fragrance she advises pairing it with basic breathwork. “Inhale the fragrance for two seconds, exhale for six, drop your shoulders, and pause to look into the distance. These simple behaviours help reinforce new neural pathways and support balance in the nervous system.”

Own Time, the first functional fragrance from This Works, is available online at thisworks.com, with prices ranging from £10 to £80 ($15 to $115), shipping to both the UK and US.