How to Future-Proof Your Scalp
We all dream of hair that’s stronger, healthier, and glossier than a freshly cured mani, and for centuries, we’ve been told the secret lies in how we wash, cut, treat, or style it. But according to Lars Skjøth, the real answer starts at the scalp.
“Your scalp isn’t just some forgotten real estate under your hair, it’s skin,” he explains. “If you’re treating it like anything less, you could be setting yourself up for problems down the road.”
So, what does it take to future-proof your scalp in order to achieve the hair of your dreams? We spoke to Skjøth, scalp and hair health expert and founder of Hårklinikken, the world’s leading scalp and hair health clinic, to better understand the signs of an unhealthy scalp, the causes behind it, and the everyday habits that might be quietly sabotaging your strands.
Why is scalp care important?
According to Skjøth, the scalp is far more delicate than most people realise. “Your scalp is weaker than your facial skin,” he says. “While you’re obsessing over your 12-step facial routine, your scalp is up there aging six times faster and dealing with way more issues. Lower barrier function means it’s basically defenceless against all the damage we throw at it daily.”
What are the signs of an unhealthy scalp?
So, how can you tell when your scalp isn’t thriving? “If your scalp is oily or greasy shortly after washing, you most likely have sebum overproduction,” says Skjøth. “This isn’t just cosmetic, it’s creating an environment for irritation, yellow-tinted dandruff flakes, and may cause acne along your hairline.”
By contrast, he explains that a dry scalp signals underproduction. “With an underproduction of sebum, you’ll see white specks instead of yellow ones, possibly redness, irritation, and that tight, uncomfortable feeling like your scalp is shrinking.”
Skjøth also points to smell as a telltale sign of an unhealthy scalp. “Your scalp shouldn’t smell, ever,” he explains. “If there’s an odour, that’s caused by one or more factors: bacteria, fungus, and/or buildup on the scalp. Persistent itching, soreness, burning, or sensitivity aren’t normal either. Your scalp shouldn’t hurt or constantly demand scratching.”
Excessive shedding or sudden changes in hair texture can also be red flags. “When your hair loses its natural wave, curl, or coil pattern, becomes limp, or lacks shine, that could mean that your scalp environment is affecting hair structure and growth.”
Skjøth argues that even mild symptoms shouldn’t be ignored. “Look for white, yellow, or greyish flakes,” he explains. “They’re often signs of seborrhoeic dermatitis or dandruff. Thick, persistent scaling that won’t go away with regular washing is seborrhoea demanding attention. Red, inflamed patches anywhere on your scalp could mean inflammation is taking over. Small, red, pimple-like pustules signal folliculitis.”
What causes scalp damage?
Hormones
According to Skjøth, hormones interacting with genetics are behind the most common type of hair thinning — a process that begins in the scalp follicles themselves. “This goes by many names, including hereditary hair loss, genetic hair loss, male and female pattern hair loss, androgenetic alopecia, but they all refer to the same process. The hormones carry out the ‘order’ from your genes to attack follicles, which causes the hair follicle to shrink, resulting in gradually thinner hair.”
He notes that stress, poor sleep, poor nutrition, and even pregnancy can accelerate this process. “Hair loss caused by childbirth is particularly brutal because hormonal fluctuations during and after pregnancy trigger increased shedding.”
Diet
Skjøth also highlights poor nutrition as playing a major role in weakening the scalp. Lacking iron, zinc, vitamin D, or protein can weaken follicles, slow growth, and trigger shedding. Crash diets or protein-restricted plans deprive the scalp of the building blocks it needs, while processed, sugary, or high-fat foods can disrupt nutrient absorption, increase inflammation, and clog follicles.
“If you’re eating nutrient-dense whole foods such as unprocessed fruits, vegetables, cold-pressed oils, grass-fed meat, wild-caught fish, you can nourish your body and hair efficiently,” he says. “These foods contribute to gut health by adding gut-friendly fibre, vitamins, fatty acids, fatty oils, proteins, and minerals, but you also need to support your gut with probiotics – healthy gut bacteria that support digestion, bowel regularity, and nutrient absorption. You can find these in yogurt and fermented foods like sauerkraut and kimchi.”
Environmental factors
For Skjøth, what you expose your scalp to is just as important as what you put into your body. “Environmental damage, such as sun exposure, hits your scalp hard because it has lower barrier function than your facial skin,” he explains. “UV rays disrupt your scalp barrier, leading to dryness, inflammation, and compromised hair growth. Sun exposure also makes your hair brittle, dry, and frizzy, especially colour-treated hair that fades and turns brassy. The solution is simple: wear a hat or scarf.”
Styling and chemical treatments
Unsurprisingly, Skjøth also highlights the dangers of styling and chemical treatments. “Some styling and chemical treatments can destroy your scalp permanently,” he warns. “Traction alopecia from constant pulling from braids, extensions, tight hairstyles, and hair clips can rip follicles and cause irreversible scarring hair loss. Dry shampoo, which is not shampoo, is particularly destructive because it doesn’t cleanse anything. It just coats your scalp with chemicals and powders that clog follicles, disrupt pH balance, and can lead to dermatitis, folliculitis, and hair loss.”
Lifestyle habits
Finally, Skjøth argues that even small, everyday habits may be quietly sabotaging scalp health. “Skipping washes, using products that build up, or thinking ‘natural’ means less washing can create inflammation and hair follicle stress. Your scalp has more oil glands than anywhere else on your body. Neglecting proper cleansing isn’t being kind to your scalp; it could be setting it up for chronic problems that will cost you hair density over time. So, when you skip washing for a few days because you think it’s ‘healthier,’ you’re creating a perfect storm of buildup, inflammation, and potential follicle infections. That’s not being natural – that’s being negligent.”
How can you future-proof the scalp?
Avoiding triggers is only half the battle — prevention, Skjøth argues, is just as crucial. “The future-proofing strategy is simple but non-negotiable: treat your scalp like the delicate, high-maintenance skin it actually is,” he says. “Daily or every-other-day cleansing with the right shampoo isn’t excessive, it’s essential. You need to clear out that excess sebum before it turns into a problem.”
As a baseline, he recommends Hårklinikken’s shampoo and hydration programme. “If you want to actually optimise your scalp, the personalised Hair Gain Extract is the game-changer,” he adds. “It’s not some one-size-fits-all solution; it’s handmade to your scalp’s specific needs and adjusted as those needs change.”
For Skjøth, the bottom line is clear: the scalp ages faster, is more fragile, and produces more oil than the face ever will. “Treat it right,” he says, “and you’re investing in decades of healthier hair growth.”
Hårklinikken clinics are located worldwide, including Copenhagen, Reykjavik, Dubai, New York, Los Angeles, and Beverly Hills. Products are also available online at harklinikken.com, shipping to both the UK and US.