The Sunscreen Scandal: What You Need to Know

If you’ve recently started side-eyeing your sunscreen, you’re not alone. Australia’s 2025 sunscreen scandal has revealed several high-profile SPFs to be under-delivering on their protection claims, and not reaching the SPF level promised.

Suddenly, something that felt straightforward now feels strangely complicated. And with so many formulas out there, it’s natural to wonder what’s trustworthy. To help make sense of things, we turned to Mukti, Cosmetic Formulator, Skin Therapist, and founder of Mukti Organics.

What is SPF?

We see those three letters everywhere, but not everyone knows what they mean. As Mukti clarifies, “SPF stands for ‘Sun Protection Factor’ and essentially refers to a lab measure of how well a sunscreen protects your skin from UVB rays (the main rays that cause sunburn). In testing, it compares how much UV is needed to start burning protected skin versus unprotected skin, so a higher SPF means more UVB is filtered out. In simple terms, SPF30 filters out about 96–97% of UVB, while SPF50 filters about 98%, if applied correctly.”

How can I know if an SPF level is accurate?

Right now, this is the question everyone is asking. “This question is currently hard to answer,” Mukti says. “Recent investigations by consumer groups have tested a range of popular SPF50 and SPF50+ sunscreens and found that many of them did not reach their promised levels — with some allegedly performing closer to SPF20 or lower.”

To stay safe, Mukti suggests reviewing independent test results, avoiding brands highlighted for inconsistencies, and strengthening your own protection habits — including reapplying far more frequently than you think necessary (around every 20 minutes during high exposure), and using additional protection like hats, clothing, and sunglasses.

Should I still use a sunscreen involved in the scandal?

“In short, no. Switch to a brand that has passed reliable testing and request a refund if you’re able to,” she explains.

Regulators across Australia are now under pressure to tighten oversight, introduce more rigorous compliance testing, and improve how SPF data is verified before products reach the shelves. Some countries are even considering routine post-marketing checks to help catch underperforming formulas sooner. The hope is that trust and transparency will improve as a result.

What’s the difference between a mineral and chemical sunscreen?

Mineral sunscreens work by essentially sitting on the surface of the skin to physically reflect and scatter UV rays. They’re usually powered by zinc oxide or titanium dioxide and are safe for sensitive skin.

However, mineral sunscreens have historically suffered from bad PR. As Mukti notes, “Mineral sunscreens have gained a bad reputation in the past thanks to lacklustre formulations that leave a strong white cast on the skin. But thankfully these days they’ve had a glow-up, with newer formulations offering a transparent, non-greasy finish without the ghostly effect.”

Chemical sunscreens take a different approach. “Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing UV rays, converting them to heat, and dissipating the energy away from your skin,” she explains. “They often go on clear, light, and virtually undetectable, which means many people opt for this type since they’re after that seamless finish. But unfortunately, they also often contain a host of additional questionable ingredients like fragrance, alcohol, and some chemical filters like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octocrylene, and homosalate. Oxybenzone and octinoxate have been detected in human tissue and are linked with endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in some studies. Avobenzone can be unstable, breaking down under sunlight into questionable byproducts. And octocrylene sometimes degrades into benzophenone, a possible carcinogen.”

In other words, the transparency and lightweight feel come with a few caveats. Beyond the potential skin concerns, there’s also the environmental side to consider. Certain chemical filters — especially oxybenzone and octinoxate — are now recognised as coral stressors, disrupting marine ecosystems, bleaching reefs, and hindering their ability to recover.

For Mukti, the takeaway is simple: “Always opt for mineral sunscreen.”

How can I choose the right sunscreen?

Sunscreen is essential, no matter where you live. Mukti recommends choosing an approved sunscreen, applying it frequently, and combining it with other protection like hats, sunglasses, clothing, and shade, rather than relying on SPF alone.

For those who feel uneasy about chemical filters, she recommends a zinc-based mineral formula. And if your go-to SPF has been named in any recent warnings or consumer reports, it’s worth checking the official lists and swapping it out.

Above all, Mukti leaves us with the following, “Buy from trusted brands, pay attention to recall notices, and remember that inconsistent or inadequate use of any sunscreen is a bigger proven risk than the theoretical hazards dominating comment threads.”

Mukti is available online at muktiorganics.com, with shipping to both the UK and US.