Salmon DNA for Your Skin? Here’s What Polynucleotides Actually Do
Over the past few years, polynucleotides have established themselves as one of the most sought-after aesthetic treatments, garnering attention for their ability to rejuvenate and repair the skin from within. To better understand this technology, we consulted with three aesthetic experts to get an in-depth understanding of why polynucleotides are being heralded as a transformative breakthrough in skincare.
What are polynucleotides?
Despite the scientific-sounding name, the idea behind polynucleotides is fairly simple. According to aesthetic doctor Sara Rakhshani, they’re filtered, ultra-purified fragments of natural DNA that kick-start your body’s own fibroblast production. Fibroblasts are the cells responsible for making collagen and elastin, and that’s where the skin benefits come in. As Dr Rakhshani puts it, “The result is increased collagen, increased production of elastin, improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduced dark circles under the eyes, and hydrated skin.”
If you haven’t heard of polynucleotides before, you may have come across them under a brand name instead. These include Nucleofill, PhilArt, Ameela (previously called Nucleadyn), Pluryal Silk, and Mastelli.
While they’re having a moment in aesthetics, polynucleotides aren’t new. Fellow aesthetic doctor Catherine Fairris says they’ve been used in general medicine for many decades, with over 90 clinical trials demonstrating their efficacy and safety.
What makes them unusual is where they come from. Dr Fairris explains that they’re derived from the sperm DNA of salmon and trout, a by-product of farming these fish, which is sterilised and purified into DNA fragments that mimic human DNA. These fragments act as messengers, signalling to cells to step up their production of intracellular molecules.
That’s why polynucleotides are considered biostimulators, she says, helping to repair tissue, speed up cell turnover, and stabilise the activity of melanocytes (the skin’s pigment cells). She adds that they have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties too, which could widen their use in aesthetics even further. “Overall, they can be classified as a regenerative treatment and not just an aesthetic treatment.”
What skin benefits do polynucleotides provide?
Part of the appeal is just how versatile polynucleotides are, treating a whole range of skin and ageing concerns beyond lines and wrinkles. Dr Fairris says they can be used to hydrate and rejuvenate the skin, singling out the under-eye area as one place they can really help, since it can be particularly difficult to manage.
They can also be used to treat scarring, such as acne and atrophic scars. And the way they calm the skin and regulate pigment makes them useful for some more stubborn conditions, too. As Dr Fairris explains, “Their anti-inflammatory effect can also be harnessed in the treatment of rosacea and their stabilising effects on melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) make them excellent candidates for the treatment of melasma and hyperpigmentation.”
How do polynucleotides differ from other injectables?
It’s easy to lump polynucleotides in with other injectables, but they do a very different job. Dr Rakhshani explains that hyaluronic acid fillers and Botox focus on adding volume to the face and relaxing the facial muscles, whereas polynucleotides work on enhancing the skin’s natural repair processes.
That difference shows up in the results, too. According to Dr Fairris, filler works instantly and can last up to 18 months or so, depending on the type of HA filler used. Polynucleotides work on a cellular level, so they don’t deliver instant results and only add minimal, short-lived volume to the injected area. “However, there will be more noticeable cellular change in areas treated with polynucleotides versus those treated with HA filler.”
She explains that their regenerative effect heals cells from within, prompting them to produce more collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin. The result, she says, is skin that looks healthier both under the microscope and to the naked eye.
What should I expect from a polynucleotide treatment?
Skin expert and aesthetic practitioner Dr Raquel Amado says treatment starts with a skin cleanse to remove any dirt and debris. From there, it’s about keeping you comfortable while the product goes in. “After cleaning the skin, we will apply a numbing cream to reduce discomfort before administering multiple injections or use a cannula across the treatment area.”
There is some downtime afterwards, but Dr Fairris says it’s minimal, usually just a little swelling and redness that lasts a few hours.
A course of two to three treatments over four to six weeks is typically recommended, she says, although this depends on the product being used and what you and your practitioner are hoping to achieve. Results take a little patience. It can take up to six weeks before you start to notice changes, and results can last three months or more after your initial course.
You’ll need maintenance treatments to keep things going, and Dr Fairris says results are best in patients who make healthier lifestyle choices around alcohol, smoking, sun exposure, and diet.
Are polynucleotides safe?
“The treatment itself is generally quite safe,” explains Dr Rakhshani. That said, she points out that, like any aesthetic treatment, it comes with potential risks and side effects, including temporary redness, swelling, bruising, or irritation at the injection site.
Given where polynucleotides come from, you might be wondering about fish allergies. Dr Rakhshani addresses that, too: “It’s also totally safe for patients who are allergic to fish because all the proteins that cause the allergy are removed during the purification process.”
Where can I get a polynucleotide treatment?
Polynucleotide treatments aren’t currently approved in the US. The only FDA-approved skin booster there is SkinVive by Juvéderm, though it’s hyaluronic acid-based and works differently from polynucleotides.
For UK residents interested in experiencing a polynucleotide treatment, we recommend consulting with the following skincare experts:
- Dr Sara Rakhshani — London, UK
- Dr Cotter — Belfast, UK
- Dr David Jack — Edinburgh, UK
- Dr Raj — Cardiff, UK
- Dr Fairris — Winchester, UK
- Dr Amado — Kent, UK
- Dr Law — Liverpool, UK