Interview | Dr. Barbara Sturm
Dr. Barbara Sturm has long been a defining voice in modern skin health, challenging industry orthodoxy long before terms like ‘barrier repair’ became a buzzword. While much of the beauty industry spent decades overcorrecting in pursuit of perfection and promoting aggressive ‘no pain, no gain’ treatments, the aesthetics expert built her beauty empire on a singular conviction: inflammation accelerates visible ageing and compromises long-term skin integrity.
From her early work in orthopaedic research to her rise as one of the most in-demand aesthetic doctors globally, Sturm’s approach has consistently centred on working with the body’s own regenerative abilities rather than overriding them. Her MCX treatment — the Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) facial widely known as the ‘Vampire Facial’ — became emblematic of this philosophy, harnessing the skin’s intrinsic repair mechanisms to stimulate renewal without compromising barrier function.
Through her eponymous skincare brand, Dr. Barbara Sturm has translated complex clinical science and a rigorous anti-inflammatory ethos into a high-performance, no-nonsense skincare line designed to strengthen, not stress, the skin.
This month, Dr. Sturm unveils the brand’s latest innovation: The Peptide Serum — a biotech-driven, peptide-rich formulation engineered to support collagen synthesis and improve elasticity, reinforcing the skin’s underlying support structure.
We sat down with Dr. Sturm to explore the anti-inflammatory philosophy that shapes her approach to skin health, the resolve required to build a science-led brand in an industry resistant to change, and why the future of beauty will be defined by longevity and resilience rather than short-term results.
What inspired you to create Dr. Barbara Sturm?
I began my medical practice in anti-inflammatory orthopaedics and, in 2002, I translated some of the scientific anti-inflammatory advances I helped to pioneer into skin and aesthetics. I started by injecting hyaluronic acid and Botox, which provided great results, but I kept thinking it would be a great additional anti-ageing booster if we mixed it with the body’s own anti-inflammatory healing factors, as we did in orthopaedic medicine.
This became the inspiration behind what people know today as the ‘Blood Facial’, ‘Vampire Facial’ or ‘PRP’, and soon after I developed a bespoke, blood plasma-infused MC1 Face Cream for my patients.
When they asked me to recommend a full skincare line and I couldn’t find any products I felt comfortable recommending, I decided to create my own science-based, high-performance skincare line rooted in my anti-inflammatory philosophy.
What product makes the best introduction to the brand?
My Hyaluronic Serum. I often call it the ‘white T-shirt’ of skincare because it is foundational – the essential first step I recommend to anyone beginning their journey with my skincare.
What sets it apart, and why it remains so relevant, is the precision behind every aspect of its formulation. It is not just a hydrating product; it is a treatment that supports cellular health and longevity – key factors in slowing visible skin ageing.
What has been the biggest highlight?
When David Olsen, who at the time was Vice President of Beauty at Net-a-Porter, decided to stock my products at the retailer. At the time, not many online fashion retailers were selling beauty products, so it meant a great deal to be stocked by one of the world’s largest platforms. It also opened the door to other retailers, who began asking me, one by one, to join them.
It was a huge achievement for me, and I will be forever grateful to have been given that opportunity.
What advice would you give to those wanting to launch their own beauty business?
Be confident and have the courage of your convictions. Beauty and wellness are large, competitive industries and, like many industries, they do not easily embrace change to the status quo. Focus on creating something which isn’t out there yet and is genuinely new, and ensure it is something you are truly passionate about.
What’s next for Dr. Barbara Sturm?
My team and I are always working on new products, and this year we have many exciting launches planned – starting with The Peptide Serum.
I created The Peptide Serum with a high concentration of biomimetic peptides that stimulate collagen production and support the skin’s extracellular matrix. Unlike topical collagen, peptides trigger surface-level cascades that deliver deeper, visible results. One key ingredient, Octapeptide-3, helps relax muscle contractions for a Botox-like effect, while others act like personal trainers, encouraging the skin to build and store collagen over time. We also included amino acids to support cellular function.
Clinically, the formula protects up to 90% of elastin and 63% of collagen, making it a powerful tool for long-term skin strength and resilience.
What does your daily skincare routine look like?
At the moment, my skincare routine looks something like this: twice a week, I exfoliate with the Dr. Barbara Sturm Enzyme Cleanser or Facial Scrub, and I use the Anti-Aging Body Scrub before showering to remove dead skin cells, boost circulation, and encourage renewal. On other days, I simply cleanse with the Body Wash.
After showering, I apply the Balancing Toner immediately, followed by the Hyaluronic Serum to deeply hydrate. I then layer The Peptide Serum and the Super Anti-Aging Face Cream to support skin regeneration and long-term anti-ageing.
If I notice puffiness or dark circles, I add the Exoso-Metic Eye Serum and Super Anti-Aging Eye Cream to revive and brighten the eye area.
What are three beauty products you can’t live without?
I couldn’t live without the Dr. Barbara Sturm Face Mask. It contains purslane, soothing aloe vera, and chamomile to infuse the skin with moisture, as well as kaolin clay to detoxify and leave the complexion feeling silky soft and supple. I travel a lot, and it’s perfect for reviving my skin after a long flight.
I rarely wear fragrance, but I do love Byredo’s Bal d’Afrique. Sometimes I spritz a little on my T-shirt, but never on my skin.
I don’t usually wear makeup, but if I use anything on my eyes, I apply eyeshadow by Anastasia Beverly Hills and the brand’s Brow Wiz — I always like to have good eyebrows. Fara Homidi also has some great lip compacts – I like to mix the colour with the Dr. Barbara Sturm Lip Balm.
What’s the best skincare lesson you’ve learned?
I learned from my mother that healthy, hydrated skin doesn’t require makeup and is beautiful on its own. That is a central premise of my skincare line and of my anti-inflammatory approach as a doctor.
Which person or brand would you love to collaborate with?
I have always believed that the most meaningful and impactful collaborations are rooted in shared values. For me, it’s less about a specific name and more about working with a person or brand that truly understands the connection between science, holistic wellness, and longevity.
What’s not getting the attention it deserves in the beauty industry right now?
When it comes to beauty, skin ageing, and longevity, I always circle back to one core issue: inflammation. It is the root cause of much of the body’s and skin’s dysfunction and disease, including premature ageing, and we are constantly exposed to inflammatory triggers.
My philosophy is that managing and reducing inflammation, both inside and out, is key to maintaining healthy, resilient, and youthful skin.
There is now a growing awareness of inflammation, but it was underestimated for a long time. People are beginning to understand that it’s not just a skin concern – it’s a systemic issue that impacts overall health and long-term wellbeing. Our skin is a living, reflective organ, and it mirrors what is happening internally.
Dr. Barbara Sturm is stocked in the UK at Space NK, John Lewis, and Look Fantastic, and in the US at Sephora, Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus.