Interview | Sylvie Loday of Ex Nihilo
Few fragrance founders arrive at perfumery via aerospace engineering, but Sylvie Loday has never followed a conventional path. Before co-founding Ex Nihilo, the MIT graduate worked with NASA, researching the environmental impact of human life aboard the International Space Station. Today, she brings that same scientific curiosity and innovative spirit to luxury fragrance, helping to shape one of Paris’s most forward-thinking perfume houses.
While many perfume maisons draw heavily on tradition, Ex Nihilo has always looked firmly to the future. Defined by imagination, artistic freedom, and a deeply personal approach to scent, the brand continues to push boundaries through bespoke fragrance experiences, advanced technology, and unexpected creative collaborations.
We caught up with Loday to discuss the inspiration behind Ex Nihilo, the moments that have shaped the brand’s journey, and her own personal history with scent.
What inspired you to create Ex Nihilo?
Olivier, Benoît and I all came from different worlds: engineering and science for me, advertising for Benoît, and finance for Olivier. But we shared the same ambition: we didn’t want to build another maison anchored solely in heritage.
What we were chasing was freedom — uncompromising freedom with our perfumers, our ideas, the partnerships we build, and every decision along the way. We’re French at our core, but never nostalgic about it. Most houses look backwards for inspiration; we’ve always preferred to look ahead. We wanted to start from zero, which is exactly what the name means in Latin: something created out of nothing. That’s still the spirit that drives us every day.
What has been the biggest highlight so far?
I believe that one of the most defining and emotional moments for us was the launch of Ex Nihilo with the opening of our flagship store on Rue Saint-Honoré. It was bold, probably crazy, but the success of entrepreneurs often lies in taking risks and being resilient. We are very proud and grateful that this led us to where we are today.
What fragrance makes the best introduction to the brand?
If someone has never tried Ex Nihilo, I always point them to Fleur Narcotique. It’s an easy way in without losing what makes us truly us: bergamot and lychee up top, a peony heart that’s the real signature, settling into moss and soft woods. It’s been one of our most-loved creations since we introduced it, and it gives people a true sense of our DNA: generous, a little daring, and wearable from morning to evening. It’s the perfect introduction to the brand before they go deeper into the rest of the collection.
What’s next for Ex Nihilo?
We’re in a strong position to grow right now. L Catterton came on board as a minority partner earlier this year, which gives us real firepower behind our international ambitions, particularly in the US, and the resources to invest more seriously in how we connect with clients online as well as in-store.
But honestly, what excites me most day to day is still the product itself. Our upcoming Eau de Parfum is one of the boldest things we’re bringing out: it pushes the avant-garde spirit we’ve always stood for into new creative territory. Alongside that, we’re rolling out the Osmologue personalisation experience to more of our boutiques, which has always felt like the truest expression of what Ex Nihilo is about: fragrance that belongs entirely to the person wearing it, not just to us.
Between the new backing, the launch, new retail opportunities, and the expansion of Osmologue, this feels like one of the most ambitious chapters in the house’s history.
What are three beauty products you can’t live without?
Brompton Immortals Extrait de Parfum is one of my most-loved Ex Nihilo signature scents. It is daring, rich, comforting, and so addictive. Augustinus Bader’s Rich Cream is my favourite day cream, and I use La Mer’s Lifting Eye Serum every night before bed.
What’s the best beauty advice you’ve been given?
While having a facial at a luxury spa, the beauty specialist told me that the most important thing is not the product but the daily routine. Hydrating your skin every day creates magic over time.
Can you remember the first fragrance you purchased?
The first fragrance I purchased was Cacharel’s Loulou. I later realised that the perfumer was Jean Guichard, who I had the chance to work with while at Givaudan. Beyond being one of the most talented perfumers of his generation, he is also one of the kindest.
What person or brand would you love to collaborate with?
Audemars Piguet, as they represent the epitome of excellence, design, and know-how. Like fragrances, watches merge the worlds of design and science.
Ex Nihilo is available at Selfridges and Liberty in the UK, and at Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus in the US. For more exclusive conversations with beauty founders, explore our beauty interviews archive.